• Habagat be damned
• Mt. Fato and the crazy hiker’s high
• Mt. Kupapey and the other side of Maligcong Rice Terraces
• Sidebar

I said yes to hike Mt. Fato and Mt. Kupapey after I was offered to celebrate my birthday there. I’ve been to this part of Bontoc, Mountain Province before, so I knew what to expect. It would be an easy hike, and I thought revisiting these mountains would be the right way to get back into hiking after taking a break for several months. I’m familiar with the trails, so I didn’t think there would be anything new out of the experience this time around.

Or so I thought.

Habagat be damned

There had been more than two weeks of torrential rains leading up to the day of the hike. News about heavy flooding in various parts of Luzon, landslides, and road closures going up North made me rethink about going. 

I don’t mind hiking in the rain. In fact, I love it when it rains during the hike. It’s the threat of possible landslides and flooding along the way that bothered me.

But Kim (of KimpoyAdv) was in constant communication with his local contact in Maligcong where our homestay is located. Aside from getting assurance that the weather is not as bad as it was in Metro Manila, Kim knew exactly which route to take to avoid the landslide-prone areas and closed roads. I trust the guy, so I went on to join the group.

And the whole experience didn’t disappoint.

When we got there, the weather was indeed not as bad as we thought. It was cloudy, and light rain poured every now and then. It was like that the entire duration of our two-day stay.

Mt. Fato and the crazy hiker’s high

It was a familiar start, going up via concrete steps before we hit the muddy trail. It was as I remembered the last time I was here two years ago. Ascent after ascent, we slushed through the mud in between heavy breaths. Rain started to pour halfway through, forcing us to bring out our raincoats and umbrellas. I was with beginners, and it was endearing to hear them say “now we can call ourselves legit hikers” as they navigated the muddy trail ever so cautiously.

There was no clear view of surrounding mountains when we reached the summit because of the thick fog. It had stopped raining, and the hikers didn’t seem to mind not having a clearing. We were all just happy to be there, taking turns taking photos and just having laughs at the littlest things. It’s pure bliss that non-hikers will never understand. As I told a friend, I don’t hike for the view. I do it for the inexplicable joy of having conquered my limitations after going through breathlessness, slipping, tripping, getting wet and cold, having cramps, and getting painful joints and muscles that last way after we get back to our homes. Call us crazy, but this is the kind of high that we don’t care to explain to those who struggle to understand.

The fog did thin out eventually, if only for about a minute or so. I’d like to think that’s God’s way of rewarding the beginners among us. After a few more pictures here and there, we went back to our homestay in high spirits, anticipating another fun hike to Mt. Kupapey the following day.

Mt. Kupapey and the other side of Maligcong Rice Terraces

It rained heavily a few hours before our hike to Mt. Kupapey. I barely slept, so I was already having second thoughts about joining the group. I thought of staying in bed instead, justifying to myself that I’ve been to Mt. Kupapey, anyway. I argued with myself (a nasty habit, really), until the hiker in me prevailed. 

I got up, put on my muddy shoes, and joined the group.

Surprisingly, the trail was not as muddy as we expected. It was, in fact, much better than the trail in Mt. Fato. It didn’t rain, either. The sun actually peeked from thick clouds and through the towering pine trees as we neared the summit. Best of all, there was a clear view of the Maligcong rice terraces from the top of the mountain. The dark clouds hovered above like a blanket from heaven sheltering us from what could have been a sweltering heat from the sun.

There was a brief discussion on whether to take a backtrail to the homestay or go through the rice terraces of Maligcong. I chose to take the first option, thinking that I’ve done the Maligcong route before. It was even split, but on the way down, the group decided to go through the rice terraces together. 

It was a good decision.

Instead of going by the foot of the terraces (where we passed two years ago), we took the path through the middle of the terraces. It was a longer path that required us to pay an additional P100 for the guides. Majority of the path was paved with about two feet of concrete (I’m bad with measurement, so don’t take my word for it) that ran between the terraces. The view from here was absolutely stunning as we passed by bed upon bed of tall rice stalks dancing with the cool wind. The grains were already golden, a sign that they’re ready for harvest by September. 

This trail was long and winding, taking us around the rice terraces and giving us a full view of Mt. Kupapey. At this point, I realized that mountains always have something new to offer regardless of how many times you come back for a visit. Beyond the view, there is always a new experience, new discoveries, and new people of kindred spirits to meet. The only thing that never change is the reason for hiking the mountains – and no reason is the same for every hiker.

Sidebar: I ruined (?) the birthday surprise

Kim promised me a birthday cake, so I’d be lying if I say that I didn’t expect a surprise to go with it. I had no clue how it would be executed, though. So come dinner time after our hike from Mt. Fato, our gracious KimpoyAdv crew called us inside to eat. I was already marveling at the generous feast set on the table when I noticed the other hikers standing at the end of the table, all facing me while I made my way to the head of the table. 

I looked at them, saying, “Ang cute nyo! Bakit kayo nakatayo dyan na para kayong choir na kakanta? Kain na tayo!” (You’re so cute! Why are you standing there looking like a choir about to sing? Let’s eat!) 

And then they started singing the birthday song because of what I said. Apparently, that wasn’t supposed to be the cue since the birthday cake wasn’t ready yet. The singing faded midway as the organizers rushed to light the cake and enter the room. The singing resumed, everyone laughing at the “ruined” surprise. 

It’s my 60^th. A milestone that should be celebrated with family and/or close friends. But there I was, spending it with complete strangers and a few acquaintances. Before you pass righteous judgement on me, I want to tell you something important. I was raised not celebrating my birthday in a big way. Not even when I turned 18 when a girl turning into a lady is usually celebrated with pomp and glamor. 

So, turning 60 is just another day for me. I told my mother ahead that I would be spending my birthday in the mountains, and she understood. No drama, no explanation necessary. For that alone, I am truly blessed. Blessed with an understanding and loving family, and blessed with people who are willing to celebrate someone they barely even knew. God is indeed great!